Tentmakers of Cairo

This detail is from a large decorative textile that belonged to nurse Jane McLennan, donated by her descendants. It is known as a Touristic Khayamiya - the term used to describe works the Khayamin (or tentmakers) produced in Cairo for souvenirs.

Dr Sam Bowker from Charles Sturt University, an expert in these textiles, assisted us in identifying this stunning work, and has provided us with examples of their use at the time.

The image above is a view of an open air establishment where allied soldiers could find a place to read, and writing material. You can see the hessian walls are decorated with examples of Khayamiya.

Khayamiya or Tentmaker applique is an ancient Egyptian textile art that has morphed into practical souvenirs for visitors to Egypt. Their traditional work would be far more elaborate and used to style or decorate the interiors of tents in the Middle East.

Jane McLennan would have purchased this during her 3 week stay in Cairo before sailing for Salonika, where she served in a British Hospital in 1916-1917.

We know from her journal that conditions were very harsh and the hospital and her quarters were tents - this item would certainly have made a welcoming decoration in the circumstances.

The piece measuring over 2 metres , was made by hand-applying shapes of coloured cotton across a canvas backing, the fabrics at the time were tinted with vegetable dyes. For a textile that is more than 100 years old, it shows little sign of staining or wear.

Jane's collection includes her red-woollen nurses cape, a journal which includes snapshots, and this rare souvenir. the wall hanging has been digitised, and can be viewed online via the State Library's catalogue.

Sources:

• Dr Sam Bowker, Charles Sturt University
• 29666, Jane McLennan Collection, State Library of Queensland
• Illustrated War News, 26 Jan, 1916, p.7
• Margoliouth, David Samuel. Cairo, Jerusalem, & Damascus: three chief cities of the Egyptian Sultans, Chatto and Windus: London, 1907. p 102.